Spring 2024 Trend Recap
Spring runway shows tend to have an upbeat, let’s go out and party vibe to them. This season was distinctly different, however. Right from the beginning, many NYCFW designers showed restrained collections, and over the following three weeks the season evolved into an overall subdued take on a warm weather wardrobe. It seemed that the precarious state of the world – the war in Ukraine, political division around the globe, the rise of authoritarian leaders, generational discord, and the raging wildfires in the Mediterranean - all seemed to leave designers seeking a balance between functional fashion while still embracing the lightness of the season and finding a unique point of view.
Which is probably why we continue to see minimalism, as well as sporty chic looks, trending. But we also saw much attention given to handcraftsmanship to show the imperfection of the human hand at a time when AI generated design is becoming more of a focus (and an issue) in the industry. For those designers embracing technology, many explored the idea of futurism and what that looks like today. The one through thread between all of these trends? Hyperfemininity.
So here is my recap of the season. Compiling my own list of seasonal trends is something I always do after the Paris shows (click here to see my Pinterest board of looks). Though I do read up on what other media and trend forecasting outlets list for trends - Tagwalk, Vogue, W, Harper’s Bazaar, L’Officiel, etc. - I think they tend to be aggregated from big data, which leads to a really basic understanding of the runway shows. So, hopefully my recap of the top 15 trends of Spring 2024 gives a somewhat more nuanced take on the upcoming season.
1. Lace: The heart of the femininity trend, especially tablecloth lace looks.
As seen at: Rodarte, Gabriela Hearst, Stella McCartney, Collina Strada, and Zimmerman.
2. Belle du Jour: 1960’s babydoll dresses, A-line mini dresses and skirts, playsuits, big bows, and Peter Pan collars.
As seen at: Chanel, Versace, Gucci, Marni, and Missoni.
3. Tactile Details: Crochet, fringe, decoupage, 3D flowers, ruffles, feathers, and hand-distressing.
As seen at: Simone Rocha, Valentino, LaPointe, Huishan Zhang, Matty Bovan, Susan Fang, Sharon Wauchob, Jil Sander, Marni, Molly Goddard, Stella McCartney, and Chloe.
4. High-Impact Sleeves: Ultra-long, dramatic sleeves.
As seen at: Luar, Saint Laurent, Balmain, Gabriele Colangelo, Sacai, and Dior.
5. The Cropped Blazer: A key piece for next spring across the board.
As seen at: Proenza Schouler, Altuzarra, Fendi, Peter Do, Dolce & Gabbana, Atlein, Sacai, and Miu Miu.
6. Peplums: From tiny frills to exaggerated lengths, the peplum brings the figure focus to the waist.
As seen at: Rodarte, Ashlyn, Del Core, Cecile Bahnsen, Huishan Zhang, and Alexander McQueen.
7. Elegant Transparency: See-through looks now have grown-up appeal.
As seen at: Carolina Herrera, Gabriela Hearst, Altuzarra, Simone Rocha, Sharon Wauchob, Mame Kuroguchi, Dolce & Gabbana, Dior, Undercover, Giambattista Valli, AZ Factory, Sacai, and Chanel.
8. Sleek Tailoring: The “stealth wealth” trend is showing its staying power, with many designers opting for a sleek, elongated silhouette.
As seen at: Tibi, Proenza Schouler, Brandon Maxwell, Tod’s, Jil Sander, Peter Do, Mame Kuroguchi, Marie Adam Leenardet, Gauchere, Hermes, and Petar Petrov.
9. Layer Up: Interesting layering options had more fashion forward designers rethinking proportions.
As seen at: Ashlyn, PH5, Erdem, Issey Miyake, and Miu Miu.
10. Old World Couture: Several standout collections embraced couture silhouettes and embellishments, elevating their work beyond the realm of ready-to-wear to showcase fine workmanship and luxe materials.
As seen at: Richard Quinn, Roksanda, Erdem, and Schiaparelli.
11. Roses: Florals as a spring trend have become a bit of an industry joke, but the overblown roses at McQueen and shrouded versions at Simone Rocha and Undercover brought the concept a fresh appeal.
As seen at: Simone Rocha, Undercover, Alexander Mcqueen, Sandy Liang, Balmain, and Marni.
12. Modern Art: Bauhaus and pop art references in solid or color blocked hues of yellow, blue and green.
As seen at: Ferragamo, Alessandro Vigilente, Fendi, Bottega Veneta, JW Anderson, and Valentino.
13. Red: The color of the season.
As seen at: Brandon Maxwell, Huishan Zhang, Altuzarra, Hermes, Peter Do, and Sacai.
14. Elegy: Some designers finally felt the Covid fog lifting, bringing with it a somber note for all that has been lost over the last few years.
As seen at: Undercover, Maison Margiela, Gabriela Hearst, Issey Miyake, Prada, Christian Dior, and Rick Owens.
15. High Shine: Metallics, iridescent taffeta and other lustrous materials were key to futuristic looks.
As seen at: Tom Ford, Chloe, Rabanne, Coperni, Prada, Alexander McQueen, and Y/ Project.
Photo courtesy of Gucci
