Spring 2024 Designer Watch
Though I try to review as many shows as possible during Fashion Month, like anyone I have designers who are my personal favorites (which are too numerous to mention here). But this season, there will be several designer debuts at major labels, independent showcases, and one hotly anticipated return and that will make the Spring 2024 season one to watch. Here’s what I am excited to see:
Milan Fashion Week will see three creative director debuts at major brands: Peter Hawkings at Tom Ford, Sabato De Sarno at Gucci, and Simone Bellotto at Bally. Editors and buyers will be watching to see just how much Hawkings and Bellotto will break with the past (or not) and if De Sarno can offer a new and desirable vision at Gucci.
Milan will also play host to London-based Brazilian designer Karoline Vitto. Vitto, who will be part of the “Supported by Dolce & Gabbana” program, is an emerging talent known for her size-inclusive designs that celebrate female curves.
NYFW will host the Global Fashion Collective, a platform for emerging designers from around the world. A few highlights include independent label SISIO by designer Charlotte Shao, Tokyo-based haute couture atelier SAQULAI, demi-couture label HOSHI, and a collection using Epson's digital textile printing technology by new media artist Naoko Tosa, whose work is in the collections of museums like MoMA and the National Museum of Art in Osaka.
Peter Do, who worked under Phoebe Philo during her Céline tenure and will be showing his namesake line in Paris this season, has made a name for himself with his clean, reductive, and refined tailoring. That aesthetic has led to him being entrusted with the Helmut Lang brand with his first collection to be shown this season. The industry will be watching how the young designer handles the pressure of helming two collections at once and if he can translate the Helmut Lang aesthetic into a look that is relevant. Just to add to the pressure, Do is also launching Crafted by Do, an upcoming collaboration of quiet luxury unisex pieces with Banana Republic in October.
Daniel Lee, another Philo / Céline alum, had much made of his debut at Burberry last season (I personally found it lackluster). Ever since Christopher Bailey left the British heritage brand it has been struggling to find itself. Though Lee played to Burberry’s strength as an outdoor brand for his initial show, the blown up, pop-colored checks, “Rose” themed sweatshirts, and oversized pants just felt like a rehash of past ideas. I’m hoping to see something more directional from Lee this season.
Finally, though she’s not showing, the highly anticipated launch of Phoebe Philo’s namesake line this season looms large over fashion month. Editors, buyers, and fans alike will see if Philo has evolved her chic, directional take on minimalism or if the designer has moved on to other ideas (Philo has been tight-lipped about what to expect from her new venture). According to a WWD report from June, this first collection will include 150 styles spanning across ready-to-wear, jewelry, eyewear, and footwear.
Images courtesy of Ugis Riba and Tahy Nguyen / Shutterstock
