September News Roundup
Missed reading engaging fashion and design stories this past month? Here is a roundup of the most interesting articles I read from around the media:
The latest exhibition at the Fondation Azzedine Alaïa hosts ‘Alaïa / Grès. Beyond Fashion’, a conversation between the two couturiers and their approach to fashion. The exhibit focuses on the striking similarities between both master couturiers, from their interest in sculpture – Alaïa studied sculpture at the School of Fine Arts in Tunis and Madame Grès wanted to become a sculptor as a child – to their mastery of fabrics, cutting and draping techniques, and even their abbreviated color palette. The dresses featured in the show include pieces by Grès that were part of Alaïa’s own personal haute couture collection of more than 15,000 pieces, the third largest collection in France. Wallpaper
The latest round of designer changes at leading houses may signal that brands are (finally!) more interested in creative heads with extensive industry and leadership experience over their younger, more social media savvy counterparts. Ludovic de Saint Sernin at Ann Demeulemeester, Charles de Vilmorin at Rochas, and Rhuigi Villaseñor at Bally all either threw in the towel last season or came to a mutual understanding with their respective brands that it was time to depart – and all three designers left their respective brands in less than three years. As one expert with extensive experience of the luxury sector pointed out with sportswear and big logos starting to wane fashion is back to real clothing: "The industry is looking for reassuring profiles with designers who know how to make clothes and collections, capable of dressing for real life." Now we just need fashion brands to hire designers who are both technically gifted, as well as visionary in their design sensibilities. Fashion Network
Naples, Italy is a city synonymous with menswear tailoring and it is facing an existential crisis. Master tailors are increasingly in short supply even as customer demand for bespoke Italian tailoring is on the rise. The shortage of master tailors is a combination of Italy’s low birthrate and young people being uninterested in learning the time-consuming technical skills of this artisan craft – something tailoring has in common with other old-world professions from around the globe like leatherworkers, weavers, and watchmakers. Learn more about the challenges these master tailors face with a behind the scenes look at three of the finest sartorie in the world: Rubinacci, Ciardi, and Panico. GQ
Of all the social media platforms, the one I am consistently on is LinkedIn. Having direct contact to professional peers and potential clients has always felt like a career game-changer. But lately, I must admit, I have been somewhat surprised with people’s posts, whether they seem to be divulging too much personal information (like their mental health struggles) or heavily criticizing big brands (Louis Vuitton seems to be a favorite target of many in the luxury area). If you are a dedicated LI user like I am, then this article is for you. Business Insider
The Dispatch from Design Anthology is one of my favorite newsletters, as it delivers the latest in architecture, art, design, interiors, travel, and style from around the globe, but with a special focus on the Far East (the company’s HQ is in Australia). Stories are a mix of artist profiles, deep dives into new commercial projects including creative spaces, hotels, and restaurants, and high-end residential projects all with an eye toward modernist design. Some of my favorite recent stories include an exploration of Japanese American artist Isamu Noguchi and his relationship with Greece, the fight between a traditional Chinese shrine and a developer looking to create a state-of-the-art neighborhood in Bangkok, and a look at a science fiction-meets-brutalist bar in Hong Kong. Design Anthology
Photo courtesy of Queen of England / Shutterstock
