February 2025 News Roundup

1.

It was mid-February when the sad news broke that Saks Global was closing the iconic Neiman Marcus flagship in Dallas. Then it came out that CEO Marc Metrick told the more than 2,000 brands Saks, Neiman Marcus, and Bergdorf Goodman carry that the company was delaying payments to vendors until mid-summer and, going forward, would pay net-90 days. As Business of Fashion’s Imran Amed stated in an article, the power imbalance between a company that does $10 billion in combined revenue and the fashion brands that rely on timely payments to finance their businesses and future collections appears to be growing. In support of their members, the CFDA released this short statement stating that fashion brands and designers deserve receiving “fair and timely payments,” but stopped short of outlining exactly what are “clear and equitable payment terms.”

I believe everyone in the fashion industry – from brands and designers to freelance editors, stylists, and photographers should be paid net 30-days from invoice like any other business. No fashion company – wholesale, retail, publication or otherwise – should be allowed to finance their business on the money they owe others.

Paul Tazewell at the American Cinematheque's 4th annual Tribute to the Crafts at The Egyptian Theatre Hollywood. Photo courtesy of Joe Seer/Shutterstock.

2.

With the Oscars being broadcast this evening, it seemed only fitting to include an interview with Wicked costume designer and Oscar nominee Paul Tazewell. The Ohio native is a Hollywood veteran, having designed costumes for "Hamilton," "The Color Purple," and "West Side Story." If Tazewell wins tonight, he will be the first Black male designer to receive an Oscar in this category. Learn why he chose to become a costumer instead of a fashion designer, how he uses his craft—color, fabric, and texture—to tell a story and express a character’s inner world, and when he finally found the confidence to assert his vision while working on a movie.

3.

Early last month, Gucci officially decided to part ways with creative director Sabato de Sarno. So much has been written about what went wrong at Gucci post-Alessandro Michele, yet it’s always difficult to know what is going on inside a company, even one that is publicly owned. However, I think this overview of the relationship between Sabato De Sarno and Gucci is a solid look at the brand’s major issues. The main one? Though the role of creative director is often seen as a dream job, the success of a brand depends on the entire company embracing this individual’s vision. Every department—from PR to merchandising—must be aligned by adopting a clear, cohesive strategy that guides everyone, rather than some divisions or individuals working independently. It seems the company has more work to do than just replacing de Sarno’s position.

Massive Attack performing at the Sonar Festival in Barcelona, Spain. Photo courtesy of Christian Bertrand/Shutterstock.

4.

I have been a fan of Massive Attack ever since the band released its debut album, Blue Lines. From their musical evolution and frequent collaborations with artists like Martina Topley-Bird, Liz Fraser, and Sinead O'Connor to their amazing album art—yes, I am thinking of Nick Knight’s photography for Mezzanine—and incredible stage performances, Massive Attack has always been one of my absolute favorite bands. In this interview, band member Robert Del Naja discusses making art and music, how he incorporates social and political activism into both creative outlets, and why, despite so many people saying otherwise, he is not Bansky.

Bernard Arnault at the Élysée in Paris. Photo courtesy of Antonin Albert/Shutterstock.

5.

French businessman and LVMH founder, chairman, and CEO Bernard Arnault attended the inauguration of our current president and left with the curious impression that “a wind of optimism is blowing through the US.” This stands in stark contrast to his native France, where rising corporate taxes have likely contributed to his frustration (you can see his remarks here). However, Arnault can take comfort in having apparently inspired Meta CEO Mark Zuckerberg, who appears to be following his lead; just like Arnault decided to cut “low-performing workers at Tiffany’s,” Zuckerberg is now taking similar measures at Meta. After all, as Arnault put it, it’s simply an opportunity for employees to be “promoted outwards, so to speak.”