Fall 2024 So Far
At a time when much of the globe is in turmoil, the Fall 2024 season is developing to be one driven by mixed emotions. Much of the clothing has creative directors balancing feelings of protection, vulnerability, and strength all within a single collection. And it’s no wonder fashion is exploring these themes, as almost 50% of the world will have national elections this year and the consequences will be with us for decades. With populists across the world gaining power, economies still recovering post-pandemic, and women’s rights being rolled back in multiple countries according to Human Rights Watch, the mood feels very mid-1930s.
So, in a sign of the times, designers are juxtaposing different clothing constructions within a single collection like enveloping coats and jackets with funnel collars, precision tailoring, and delicately beaded, feathered, and fringed skirts and dresses. The pervasive transparency seen on the runways and - to better effect - the trompe l’oeil leotards and evening dresses with the female form (Schiaparelli, for one), seem to drive home the point of a woman’s right to ownership over her own body. Overall, the collections have been a delicate balance of safety and intimacy with functionality and strictness. Complex emotions for complex times.
At NYFW, designers did play it a bit safe, but that still resulted in some beautiful collections. Proenza Schouler, Altuzarra, Jason Wu, Alejandra Alonso Rojas, Ashlyn, Michael Kors, Maria McManus, and Adam Lippes all showcased their ideas for a modern, quiet luxury wardrobe. Sleek, understated suiting – the skirt is back in a big way next season - and cozy outerwear were a focus across the board, as were draped dresses and textured knitwear (check out my Pinterest board here to see the looks I find most interesting for the Fall 2024 season). While there was commentary in some editorial corners about how practical the clothing was at NYFW – and I will agree with Cathy Horyn at The Cut that brands showed completely respectable clothes, but nothing that ignited real excitement - the truth is that American brands are known for delivering elegant, but real-world design.
In London, designers set out to distill their view of the season through their own unique lens: Harris Reed and Richard Quinn focused on dramatic eveningwear dressing through contemporary demi-couture, while Simone Rocha, Di Petsa, and Dilara Findikoglu each presented their take on modern femininity and the female form. Erdem and Roksanda looked to other art forms – opera and architecture, respectively – to inform their Fall 2024 collections, and Sharon Wauchob delivered a sophisticated collection of pajama dressing and party frocks.
Moving on to Milan, Bottega Veneta was again a standout, with French designer Matthieu Blazy’s take on elevated everyday pieces – a precursor to Paris - that showcased softly draped leather outerwear and multi-colored dresses. Other Milan highlights were Del Core, with fluid suiting and knockout eveningwear (I will be dumbfounded if a stylist does not scoop up his beaded evening gown for The Oscars), No. 21’s glamourous new bourgeoisie looks, Prada’s fusing of precision tailoring with feminine lingerie, Ferragamo’s military outerwear and transparent dresses, and Ermanno Scervino’s elegant tailoring.
Interestingly, it is Paris that is moving on from quiet luxury and instead focusing on the idea of exceptional everyday pieces. A few standout collections that explored this theme include Undercover, Gauchere, Dries Van Noten, and Mame Kurogouchi. Another highlight was the return of Chloé, which staged an incredible comeback collection with Chemena Kamali at the helm that riffed on the brand’s classic 1970’s looks (and showing just how poor a fit Gabriela Hearst was for the brand). With four days left to go and several big brands still waiting to show their Paris collections, I hope to see creative directors continue to push our fashion expectations for next season.
Image courtesy of Michael Kors
